[edit: photos removed from main page. You can find them in either the summer or the food photo albums, bandwidth permitting]
So (mom), we survived our motorcycle trip across Kyushu! All together we rode 1,600 km, each on our own motorbike. Unfortunately, Julia wasn't feeling so great for a bunch of it, so she often just suffered quietly (well, there's no way I'd really know - we were on separate bikes, there was lots of bike and wind noise, and I was wearing a helmet that covered my ears). Despite feeling worse as the trip went on, she survived with what seems to have been a fairly positive view of the whole thing.
While we were on Kyushu, the weather was good almost every day. On the way there and on the way back, however, we got fairly soaked. I never thought I would be so thankful for how the Japanese highway planners love to punch holes through mountains, rather than go around them, on the expressways - it gave us some blessedly dry periods where you could imagine drying a tiny bit before re-entering the deluge.
[edit: photos removed from main page. You can find them in the "bike trip to kyushu" photo album, bandwidth permitting]
(this is on the ferry, cool eh!)
After getting off the ferry and driving into Beppu, though, the weather turned quite nice. The air was warm and dry, and there were palm trees alongside the road to greet us. The city of Beppu itself is actually quite the site, as it is a hot-spring town. Steam literally rises from all over the city, and almost every hotel or ryokan has its own onsen, naturally fed and heated. The many steam vents (no water coming out) were often harnessed somehow (I'm guessing for energy), and you'd see the steam pouring out through the steamstack at the top of small huts that dotted the fields and mountainside.
In Beppu we focussed on how nice the futons were at the hotel stayed at, as all other nights were being spent outside camping. That night, we made what I figure to be our best discovery. While trying to find a random free outdoor onsen in the mountain, I made a wrong turn somewhere and ended up discovering a different one, Hebi no Yu. This spring was very nice (apparently nicer that the other one, some other people told us), and even had a convenient spot that one could camp (to which we returned for our last night).
[edit: photos removed from main page. You can find them in the "bike trip to kyushu" photo album, bandwidth permitting]
The next day, we rode to another nearby hotspring town, Yufuin. Being Golden Week, though, and being a popular destination, it was *very* crowded. There was a voluteer at the train station handing out maps and explaining how to get around the town, which was completely full of vehicles and people. We were very glad for our motorcycles, as I don't think it would have been possible otherwise. We even managed to get some parking spots close to where we wanted to be - which would have been impossible in a car. There was an picturesque pond, carefully landscaped, surrounded by many hotspring-fed baths, art museums, cafés and restaraunts.
After this, we pretty much spent all of our time riding through mountains, hunting down both onsen and camp-jo (campgrounds). It seems as if every campground that we stayed at either had their own hot-spring, or had an onsen next door.
First we hit up the kurokawa area, where the camp-jo had a very nice rotenburo (outdoor tubs) and the local ryokan Oku no Yu's rotenburo - set alongside a picturesque river - set Julia's mind spinning with future hot-tub design ideas.
After this, we headed down to Aso-san, a volcano with apparently the largest crater in the world. This crater is the old crater, it seems, and the entire City of Aso fit inside the crater. In the center of this crater is the newer volcano, Aso-san. We visited a spring here which had one tub which reminded me of a passage in the Lonely Planet. It described the onsen culture in Japan, where people would spend months on end in onsen, if they could, held in place by a rock on their lap. I could believe it of this place. The tub was separated into many smaller, compartmentalized tubs by big wooden dividers. Each tub held a few older men who looked as if they hadn't moved in months, nor were they intending to move again in the future. Strangely, the water here was quite acidic, and I had been warned to take off all jewlery first, as it may quickly corrode - yet these guys still seemed to have all their skin intact. Either way, after getting out, rinsing off with fresh non-acidic water seemed like a good way to keep mine.
From here we had intended on bombing it down south, through the mountains on highway 265 all the way to Ebino city. Well, we ended up learning that a bold line on a map, outlined in yellow as if to indicate a major route may not really reflect reality in any way. The road seemed to have been the specific target of some typhoons and landslides in recent years, and those areas not under construction to repair this seemed to be under construction for some other reasons. With this to slow us down, there also were the incredibly windy roads - also not apparent on the map. Don't get me wrong, they were very fun to ride, winding tightly through hills and trees - it just added a lot of time to what we were hoping on getting done.
Towards the end of the day, it was getting dark, and we just wanted to get to the campground. We were firmly committed to this highway at this point, and we discovered an area under very heavy construction, so Julia got to practise her riding on gravel, - as it was getting dark. Now, up until this time, there had been construction-related signs the whole way, all in kanji, of course. Well, just as it was completely dark, we discovered that the road did not, in fact, go anywhere. We had passed many places that motorcycles could squeeze by where cars likely could not, but here we discovered that the road did not exist anymore. It had been completely wiped out by a landslide, and you couldn't even walk around it, not to mention take a bike. We were beginning to run low on gas, but if this had not happened, we would have been fairly close to our final destination. Now, low on gas and in the dark, we made our way back through the rough gravel area and into the closest town - where all the gas stations were, of course closed - and began heading the long way around, looking for anywhere that we could spend the night. Despite the earlier heat of the day in Aso, spending the rest of the day up in mountains had gotten us fairly cold. Well, someone was looking out for us, as we saw, in English, a sign for the Futago Campground in the middle of an empty stretch of highway, with a neighbouring onsen. That was a *very* nice end to what looked to be a frustrating evening with a bad camping spot.
Well, after this, we headed down to our farthest destination, Ebino city, saw some more volcanoes and crater lakes, camped in the cold, and then bombed back up to Beppu for the last night. We camped beside the same spring we had discovered on our first day, and it began to rain. The next day, we packed up and rode back to Tokushima in the drizzling rain and through cold clouds in the mountain passes of Shikoku, and were very happy when this last day was done.
All in all, it was a great trip with amazing views. Now, though, we know that if we'd do the whole thing again, we'd either want many more days to do the same distance, or we'd cut off the whole southern half of the trip so that we could spend more time exploring the areas we were in. We saw many highway signs to places we though of stopping by at, but didn't usually have the time or energy to stop.
Wow, I do write long entries - perhaps that's why I'm only allowed to do this on the odd occasion, if I've been good. :)
-Ben
PS we've already uploaded the photos